Timothy Tan's profileDays in the life of a ch...PhotosBlogListsMore  |  Tools Help |
|
Days in the life of a chocolate snackJune 21 The Beauty and Sorrow of Cambodia Part 2On the 2nd day of my trip to Siem Reap is when I truly discovered the majesty and magic of the temples of the Khmers. Up even before the crack of dawn, I made my way to catch the sunrise over Angkor Wat. As the sun slowly arose behind the temple, an indigo cast is shed upon the morning sky, creating a silhouette of the temple against the light. A reflection was cast upon the still mirror that was the pond, creating the perfect magical moment. It was breathtaking. As the sun continued to rise, the warm light slowly push the coldness of the night sky further into the west and the world around began to awake. Spiritual, isnt’t it?
<img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap077.jpg">
Back to reality. Even at this time in the morning, the temple was already filling up with tourists and locals. Locals were hawking maps, guide books, clothes, and a host of souvenirs. Despite all this, Angkor Wat maintains its ability to amaze and impress. What would it have been like when it was first discovered by the French, a hidden wonder in the dense Indo-Chinese jungle? What was it like before the tourists, before the commercialization? I guess history cannot remain buried in time forever. I can’t help but feel a sense of ambivalence towards it. On the one hand, the signs of damage can be seen all over the temple. There is, of course, restoration work but the sheer number of visitor has clearly strained the state of the ruins. On the other hand, it has provided the people who live around Siem Reap a better life from the tourist dollars it attracts. The fee the park charges goes to restoring and maintaining the sites, and it helps the people of the town with the provision of infrastructure. How do you balance history and culture with the now? This is a difficult question. I have always asked whether knowing the history and culture of one’s ancestors is more important than development and living the modern life.
Not many Asian countries have managed to do both. Look at Singapore and Hong Kong. Both are bustling metropolises, yet both lack a certain something that makes then Asian. Both have no sense of pride in their past. Old building are not preserved. They are mowed down for skyscrapers, highways etc etc. The only cities I know in Asia which still maintains somewhat this fine balance is Tokyo and Beijing (though Beijing looks like its fighting a losing battle with the developers). Why can’t the Asian mind accept that they have a history that they can be proud of and that they must try to preserve? Ask any young person in the street and do they actually know what their culture is? Or has pop culture so overwhelm us that all we know is MTV and AXN? Anyway I digress. I will revisit this theme another time.
When one walks through Angkor Wat, one will be greeted by great and detailed carvings, majestic towers, a grandeur of a time long past, when the Khmers ruled a great kingdom. But a history of constant war and strife to even the modern age has destroyed this once great culture, reducing its people to the poor citizens of modern Cambodia. It is ironic that the most developed nation in Indochina happens to be the only one that has never been colonized by western powers. The Thais have a lot to thank for. A lot of the statues and carvings have been destroyed during the 60s and 70s. Heads of statues were cut off and sold off in the international antique markets. The intricately carved samsara dancers on the walls were hacked off, leaving a scar on the temple that will never heal. And yet, some still remain and they are beautiful.
<img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap131.jpg">
<img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap151.jpg">
<img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap154.jpg">
At the height of its civilization, the Khmer temple of Angkor must have been one of the great wonders of the world. A million people lived with the walls of Angkor Thom. A city ruled by divine kings, with commerce, art and religion. How easy it is to lose it all.
Climbing up the temple, near the summit, I am again greeted by more intricate carvings and grand architecture. All sorts of questions run through the head. The temple is huge, with 3 levels of worship. The sheer amount of stone required is staggering. How many years and people did it take to build this incredible temple of worship? Every inch of the wall is covered or was covered by beautiful depictions of gods and demons. Years of hard work and a multitude of craftsmen must have devoted their lives to the building of this temple. When you walk on the stones, you realize that thousands, maybe a million pair of feet have trodden on them before you, throughout the thousand year history of the place. It is humbling. <img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap191.jpg"> <img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap177.jpg"> <img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap181.jpg"> <img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap229.jpg"> <img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap215.jpg"> <img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap171.jpg">
Angkor leaves a person with a sense of peace. As I walked out of the temple, I saw a fellow tourist resting on the steps and realized her expression reflected what a person would feel after visiting Angkor.
<img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap244.jpg">
As the sun continued to rise, it was time to move on to another temple, one that was, to me, even more impressive than Angkor Wat. It is the Bayon, the temple of faces.
The Bayon is located in Angkor Thom, the city complex which houses the palace and a few temples. The gates of Angkor Thom are guarded but gods and demons and the gate itself is a four-faced Buddha.
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap254.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap264.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap267.jpg">
A foretaste of what is to come perhaps. As I walked towards the temple, my breath was literally snatched away from me. A thousand faces stared at me, from the heights of the tower to the ruins on the ground. <img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap280.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap278.jpg">
The Bayon is a photographer’s heaven. I’ll let the pictures do the talking. I only hope they do justice to this incredible temple.
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap287.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap292.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap297.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap299.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap301.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap312.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap313.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap323.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap338.jpg">
<img src="">http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap326.jpg">
The Bayon was built as a tribute to Buddha, and what a tribute it is! There are no words to describe this place. So I will leave it at that.
June 14 The Beauty and Sorrow of Cambodia Part 1Cambodia. What kind of feelings does this torn land evoke? For me, my first trip to Siem Reap and Angkor brought feelings of both awe and sympathy. I arrived in the swanky new airport in Siem Reap, not knowing what to expect. I have heard about the beauty of Angkor for a long time and finally decided to take the time to head down for a mini-photo safari. What started as a journey into ancient ruins led to more than just a few nice pictures. The path led to more than the temples and the palaces. It led to a discovery of a beautiful people and the sorrow of a country torn apart by its own history.
Flying into Cambodia on a turbo-prop, I looked out the window to try to get a glimpse of what the country and its landscape. I saw a windy brown river snaking across the countryside, eventually emptying into a lake. I saw brown tracks and rice fields. I saw hill and mountains, jungle and an impression of heat. I was not disappointed.
When I disembarked from the plane, I was greeted by a searing wave of heat and humidity. The sultry air drew sweat from the brow, dripping down my face and onto the tarmac and cement. Nice...
Walking into the modern airport of Siem Reap, I was surprised at the modern facilties and the modern yet Asian design of the buildings. Not exactly what I expected to see in a poor third world country. Along the way, I found out the airport was owned and managed by the Thais. Figures. As I walked through immigration and into Cambodia, my impressions of the country began to slowly develop. As I made my way to the hotel in my comfortable air-conditioned Toyota, I began to see the shadows of the real Cambodia in this tourist town. Scattered amongst the modern buildings and new apartments were old zinc roofed houses, and the occasional slums. A spanking new five-star hotel sat next to old attap house. It was weird to see the dichotomy of architecture and one can't help but wonder if the real Cambodia is hidden under this tourist bling. Soon I arrived at my hotel. It was a very nicely decorated villa/cottage hotel with a nice spa. Definitely only for tourists. I checked into the hotel, dumped my bags, picked up my camera and headed straight out again. It was almost 5 and the sunset beckons.
The driver from the hotel sent me to Phnom Bakheng, the favoured hill top temple for a sunset photo. I could tell he was disappointed that I had already booked a guide for the 2 main days but I decided to hire him for the evening and for the morning of the last day. (OK I am soft. They lead a hard life). Although it was supposed to be low season, the crowd climbing up the hill was not small. I can't imagine what high season would be like. As I followed the beaten path up the hill, there was a small contingent of Cambodians playing traditional instruments. At first I thought it was just another tourist gimmick but realised soon enough that all of the people were paraplegics. They were landmine victims, trying to make a living from performing music instead of begging. I could feel a welling of sorrow rising up from the bottom of my gut. It is so sad to see ordinary people hurt and mutilated by a trap laid by some unknown soldier from years past. And in Cambodia, this tragedy happens still.
As I trekked further up the hill, I encountered 2 forlorn children, begging on the side of the path. This is not the first time I have seen beggars or children begging but somehow, in the beauty of this jungle and the ancient temple, it seems different. The sadness from her eyes will pierce your soul. Again, the waves of pity arose. This is not turning out to be a happy photo trip I'd thought it would be.
Once I reached the summit, a beautiful ancient temple topped off with towers greeted me. So did the couple of hundred of tourists around and on the temple. Oh well. It was to be expected. Climbing up the steep temple steps, I eventually reached the pinnacle. This is what I saw.
<img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap013.jpg">
<img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap022.jpg">
<img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap033.jpg">
There were toppled walls, ancient carvings, vandalised idols and lots and lots of tourists. It wasn't the most preserved of temples. Too many feet have trampled on these walls and too many figures have been vandalised but it is ancient and at the top of this temple, one gets spectacular views of the Cambodian countryside. Here is a sunset on this day.
<img src="http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l274/timtan69/Siem%20Reap%20Pictures/day1siemreap057.jpg">
The sun has set, the people have departed and Phnom Bakheng, a simple hill top temple is once again left to solitude. Thus ends the first evening in SiemReap.
April 25 Scuba divingIf you had looked my photo album, you would have noticed an overwhelming proportion of underwater pictures. Yes, I am a scuba-diver and an underwater photographer. Scuba diving has been a pleasure of mine for many years. Ever since my first snorkelling trip in the then-pristine beaches of Tioman in the 80s in Malaysia, I have been fascinated with reef ecology and marine life. There is something magical about swimming with a turtle or being surrounded by schools of reef fish. A feeling of peace, and freedom overcomes me whenever I venture into the underwater realm. And to share the wonder of what I see and feel, I decided to take up underwater photography. Before the invent of the digital camera, underwater photography was a prohibitively expensive hobby. But in the last few years, this hobby has become affordable. And that was when I first took a camera underwater. And was hooked immediately. Since then, I have cycled through 3 different cameras, settling finally with a Nikon D200 and an Aquatica housing.
I have been to many places to dive: Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Hawaii, Maldives just to name a few. And what I have seen everytime I dive has been incredibly humbling. The underwater world is something precious and fragile. Its very existence is now threatened by human greed and avarice. Its becoming more difficult to see big schools of snapper or large groupers. Sharks are a rarity when they were common 10yrs ago. Tuna and other food fish are become extinct, or threatened close to extinction. Everywhere around Asia and the world, the underwater world is threatened with over-fishing, shark-finning and pollution. And not enough is being done to protect it. Sooner or later, without action, we will lose the underwater paradise so important to the world and yes to us humans. If we don't start protecting the oceans that give us life, soon we will lose it. Wake up people! You decide what happens with your wallet. Decide to eat farmed fish. Decide against shark's fin soup. Stop eating Napoleon Wrasses. Stop eating tuna. Make sure our children and their children have the oceans and the reefs to enjoy and cherish. Start today. Don't let the following haiku become true...
Wondrous ocean
Extinction by avarice
All lost forever
Tim April 21 1st Blog
|
|
|||||||||||||||||||||
Send a private message
Subscribe to RSS feed
Tell a friend
Add to My MSN
Add to your network
Sign up for alerts
|
|
